September 18, 2002 TASTE & TELL: Taste of Auld Sod right here in Quincy By VIRGINIA HAYES The Patriot Ledger For 32 years Vicky and Constantine Kechris operated the Colonial 1600 restaurant in the heart of downtown Quincy. Family-owned and family-oriented, it boasted several generations of loyal patrons. Recently, however, they decided to pass the reins, and fellow downtown business people Diane Hill and Gerry Hanley happily took them. Owners of the nearby Paddy Barry’s pub, Hill and Hanley had been looking for a larger venue, and the recently renovated 1600 seemed to fit the bill perfectly. Renamed the Holy Ground after the neighborhood in County Cork where both grew up, the name also has come into use as a reference to Ireland itself. And though it might not openly resemble the traditional ‘‘snug,’’ with peat fire burning merrily in the corner, the cigarette smoke, laughter and ever-present Irish brogues heard around the horseshoe bar, it could make you do a double-take to see what country you’re in. The heat wave had finally broken and a fine mist filled the air the night we decided to dine there, making it a perfect evening for some heartier fare. Although some would say the term Irish Cuisine is something of an oxymoron, there are dishes they’re noted for, and luckily for us, these are on the menu along with a pleasing assortment of other foods that would keep an entire family happy. Kids’ meals, all $2.95, include macaroni and cheese, chicken nuggets and fries, grilled cheese and fries, or a hot dog and fries, and all come with choice of soft drink. Appetizers are purely American pub grub, with buffalo tenders, onion rings, mozzarella sticks and potato skins ranging from $3.50 to $4.75. We chose to start with the appetizer platter ($9.95), which included all of the above, as well as two thick slabs of garlic bread. Generous enough for the four of us, all were done just right, and the variety of dipping sauces were way above average, including one that nearly took off the tops of our heads. Entrees are also very reasonably priced between $6.50 and $10.95, and aside from Irish classics, include a pasta dish as well as chicken or shrimp curry. One friend was delighted to find Shepherd’s Pie on the menu ($6.50) as it’s a favorite of his. Done with ground beef instead of the more traditional ground lamb, this was a satisfying portion of beef, vegetables and a crust of mashed potatoes covered with a savory brown gravy. His date chose the lamb stew ($6.50), tender chunks of lamb with carrots, onions, parsnips and potatoes, which we all agreed was excellent, and a great way to welcome fall. Ever the beef eater, my husband chose the 10-ounce sirloin ($10.95), accompanied by a choice of potato and the vegetable of the evening, and was extremely generous in his praise of both the quality and the cooking of the meat. My roasted, stuffed half chicken ($7.95) was juicy and tender, and shared the plate with a mound of crispy fries and a medley of cauliflower and green beans. We shared two fine desserts that evening, both $2.95. The homemade carrot cake was among the best we’ve ever tasted, and the Bailey’s cheesecake was top notch as well, with the wonderful creamy texture of the best New York style cheesecakes. Straightforward, satisfying food, lovingly prepared, and at a terrific price - what more could you ask for? A full Irish breakfast, you say? Every Saturday and Sunday. How about lunch? Seven days a week, with the full menu plus burgers and sandwiches. And if that’s not enough to bring you in, how about live Irish music on Friday and Sunday nights? If you’re particularly offended by cigarette smoke, it is a bit difficult to get away from it, but if you yearn to capture the flavor of the Auld Sod, both in food and in atmosphere, there’s no better spot to do it than the new Holy Ground. --- HOLY GROUND - 1600 Hancock St., Quincy. 617-773-4334. Smoking in bar area. Handicap accessible. All major credit cards. Open daily from 10:30 a.m. to 1 a.m.; dinner served until 9 p.m. Copyright 2002 The Patriot Ledger